Whilst studying for my Masters I was tasked to create a marketing plan and 5-piece capsule collection, including an accessory, for Glasgow based menswear brand FORTY. I first interviewed the executive director of the brand to gain a better understanding of the FORTY consumer and to learn about the products already on offer by the brand so I could create a collection that would fit in with the FORTY concept, while also adding something different.
FORTY
FORTY is an independent fashion retailer based in Glasgow that was founded five years ago by friends Harry and Peter. Inspired by a simple drawing by Harry’s son of the iconic monster, FORTY represents and epitomises the belief that inspiration is all around and that with some hard work, anything can be possible (FORTY, 2020). FORTY offers quality streetwear which has been ethically sourced, the five main ranges are: essential, streetwear, youth, accessories and premium. The brand pride themselves on providing collections with edge and a unique flare in sizes XS-XXL. As stated by Mintel (2019), 1 in 10 men are classed as plus size and 1 in 5 men require garments designed for tall men, and so FORTY position at the top end of the menswear market by catering to a variety of sizes.
Before creating a new collection within FORTY’s currently established ranges, a new market opportunity must be recognised. ‘Dram’ was designed in correlation with the Range Planning Model created by Elliot and Rider (2007). The first step was to analyse the intended market. McKinsey’s (2009) Consumer Purchase Journey was used to help identify what FORTY’s consumers are looking for when shopping, their buying behaviours and how to retain existing consumers as well as appeal to new consumers by strategically planning what is important to them. As the menswear market saw a growth of 3.5% in 2018, with a similar growth being forecast each year till 2021 (Mintel, 2019), this new collection will focus on the menswear market.
By employing Fernie, Fernie and Moore (2003) ‘Trend Management Strategy’ three elements of trends have been identified from which the market opportunity has been determined. This collection will focus on garments that transition well from day to night for young men who desire clothing that is wearable in both casual and formal settings. Research confirms that there is a gap within this market as over a third of British men like to update their wardrobes on a regular basis, with almost two thirds (60%) of men aged between 16 and 24 (Mintel, 2019). One of the disparities between menswear and womenswear is that the nature of menswear is less trend driven (Mintel, 2019). Therefore, there is an opportunity within this market to create a premium capsule collection focused at 18-25 age range to meet consumer demand. As previously stated, Mintel (2019) confirms there is consumer demand for premium plus size menswear and so in addition to focusing on the
gap in the market for 18-25 year olds, this collection also aims to take advantage of the growing gap within plus size menswear.
The target market for FORTY’s A/W 20 collection, Dram, are young males aged between 18-25. This age range is considered the most appropriate as men between these ages are frequently updating their wardrobes and due to the increased popularity of social media, personal image is considered an important aspect of their lifestyle (Mintel Group Ltd, 2019). Mintel Group Ltd (2019) state that 36% of male social media users are reported to be ashamed of being seen in the same outfit more than once on social media platforms.The target consumer primarily lives in an urban city setting with a consistently busy schedule, juggling work, university, and social commitments. A common cross over in social engagements. Therefore, the target market is seeking trendy, high-quality garments that are easily transferrable from day to nightwear to accommodate their varied lifestyles. WGSN (2018) explains that tailoring will be reclaimed and updated by the youth market with focus on innovation in materials and trims and prioritising ease of wear and comfort. This is beneficial for our target consumers’ needs of high-quality, versatile items that can be worn for different occasions. Dram is designed for males who will be in a variety of social situations, both day and night, throughout the winter months of 2020. The collection was inspired by the “Tech-tility’ trend and the theme of “Heritage 3.0” found on WGSN which focus on updating the past for a new tomorrow. Using whisky names for the collection enforces the Scottish heritage of FORTY while also transferring it to the modern market. Each name also reflects Glasgow’s social culture and the day to night lifestyle of the target consumer and adds a premium quality to the garment. The whiskies for each garment’s name could also generate interest on a global market. It was found that in 2019, forty-two bottles were exported to one hundred seventy-five markets globally every second (Scotch Whisky Association, 2020). This means that the names of the garments will be instantly recognisable and hold meaning for foreign consumers who are likely to buy luxury brands abroad to benefit from the exchange rate (Mintel Group Ltd, 2019). The focus of this collection is to highlight Glasgow’s vibrant modern culture while also making subtle reference to the rich Scottish heritage.
PROFILE
CONSUMER
COMPETITOR
ANALYSIS
OFF-WHITE
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Luxury fashion label specialising in menswear, womenswear, footwear, accessories and homeware
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Main target audience is males aged 15-30
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Brand is rooted in current culture, specialising in street style
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High price range
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Despite End offering less affordable pieces, they are still considered a competitor of FORTY due to their target market and their product offering.
END
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Contemporary luxury fashion store specialising in menswear, footwear and accessories
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Main target audience is males ages 17-35 who are heavily brand orientated
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Also offer designer apparel
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Medium-high price range
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Competitor to FORTY as offer similar style of t-shirts & sweats and have their flagship store so close by
BAPE
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Japanese fashion brand specialising in menswear, womenswear, kids, footwear and accessories
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Caters for young individuals (13-30) with a strong sense of style
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Brand offers relaxed street style featuring an original graphic making the brand more recognisable
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Medium-high price range
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Similar offering to FORTY in terms of recognisable graphics and use of printed fabric.
Dram aims to add a new section to FORTY's established lines. Looking at the brand's image from a consumer perspective was the starting point in making sure this collection would be successful. It is important that the brand delivers products and services that are desired by consumers (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). The inspiration for this A/W20 capsule collection explores the blurring lines between reality and digital, drawing upon utility, streetwear and minimalism. Elliot and Rider's Range Planning Model (2007) directed the trend and style of this collection through exploring the predicted season trends on WGSN. Of the main three predicted trends, inspiration was mainly taken from 'Tech-tility', in particular 'Heritage 3.0' (WGSN, 2019). Focusing on the detailing and cuts to update current classics, and offering flexibility and versatility in clothing that modern men desire (WGSN, 2019). Although the main inspiration came from the 'Tech-tility' board, 'Considered Comfort' provided inspiration towards the chosen silhouettes of the collection creating the multi-purpose pieces, and influenced the chosen fabrics to create a soft, natural and tactile look (WGSN, 2019) for the collection. By following the Buying Circle set out by Elliot and Rider (2007) we were able to create the collection strategy, starting with the planning to incorporate the chosen themes within the curated collection.
Both WGSN reports, 'Considered Comfort' and 'Tech-tility', focus on creating multipurpose menswear pieces that integrate formal aspects with casual cues and a touch of tailoring (WGSN, 2019). Thus, this collection explores beyond traditional multipurpose clothing by taking an artistic view towards construction. Dram keeps the core of FORTY at the heart of the collection, to remain true to the brand while elevating the details for this premium collection. The difference between a collection that is good and one that is great, lies within the attention to detail, which is why the WGSN theme story 'Tech-tility' was used for inspiration for pocket trims and garment silhouettes. For FORTY's premium collection there is more focus in the small details of each
individual garment to add both functionality and emotion to each piece. The small details work well for the simple, clean silhouettes found in this collection.
Fabrics
Dram aims to incorporate items which are trans-seasonal meaning the selection of fabric and details have a greater role in creating the newness within the collection (WGSN, 2019). The selection of fabrics reflect a smarter mood while still being transitional between day and night. Fabrics used within the collection include, organic cotton, recycled polyester, polyamide, elastane and PU coating.
Silhouettes
As mentioned previously, the Dram collection includes five key items including an accessory which are easily transitioned and interchangeable to create a variety of new looks. The minimal and versatile style of the collection is created through the chosen shapes and silhouettes of each individual garment.
Colour
Colours were selected to capture the versatility of urban life while also reflecting a timeless aesthetic. The base colours of white and black with additional crisp grey and charcoal to give an extra dimension of tone for a variety of looks. These colours are essential to the collection as they will be versatile for day to night wear and are easily paired with each other. The accent colours give the collection a richness and warmth reflecting the seasonal earthy tones of autumn and winter. Olive green and hints of deep red will be scattered through a small selection of the products to give FORTY's consumers a chance to add individuality to their look which in turn elevates the collection to premium status.
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THE COLLECTION
DRAM
Continuing with the Scottish heritage of FORTY, the concept of the collection was inspired by the notorious Scottish drink whisky. The decision was made to name the collection Dram after the Scottish word for a small drink of whisky, and to name each garment after a different brand of whisky. The more expensive the whisky, the more expensive the item of clothing. This capsule collection focuses on detail, colours and functionality, taking influence from the WGSN (2019) trend “Tech-tility” to help create a fashion forward range. The colour palette used was kept neutral which allows for the garments to be easily paired and creates a cohesive appearance of the whole collection. Any detail of embroidery or stitching will use a darker coloured thread than that of the garment. Using mostly cotton to create a durable yet versatile finish and polyamide for water resistance, the fabrics chosen compliment those currently used by the FORTY brand. The size predicted to be most popular is 3XL to accommodate to the growing plus size market in men’s fashion.
Shirt – Vega
To match the aesthetic and the theme of the collection, unique detail is a factor that has been explored. The upside-down pocket creates a distinctive design element, and the simple FORTY embroidery emphasises that classic, clean look. By adding a zip welt pocket to the sleeve, a balance between casual and formal looks has been created, allowing this everyday shirt to be worn day or night. The shirt exhibits a relaxed fit in 100% organic cotton for durability, comfort, and breathability.
Jacket – Brora
Although lightweight, this timeless jacket is highly insulated making it an essential staple for the winter. Subtle detailing makes this jacket more appealing to the eye while remaining classic and fresh to compliment the wearer. The iconic monster is embroidered on the left chest in a contrasting stitch colour and the two patch pockets each have a flap fastening. The flap closure increases security of belongings but can also be tucked into the pocket to create a standard look. A zip is featured at the bottom of each side seam to offer the wearer the opportunity to style the jacket for fit or for comfort. The jacket is made from 100% Polyamide with synthetic padding for a warm and water-resistant finish.
Gilet – Scapa
The gilet is a very versatile garment made from 100% cotton, combining a relaxed fit with a detailed style which suits the taste of the FORTY consumers. Unlike other pieces on the market, the gilet has adjustable straps for fastening around the body to accommodate for different body shapes and fits. Two large patch pockets are stitched on the front of the gilet to act as an appealing design feature while still being functional for carrying belongings. The distinctive FORTY monster is also stitched on the bottom corner of the left patch pocket in a contrasting shade of thread to the main garment which encourages the eye to be drawn to the pocket, thus making the garment more attractive and unique. The FORTY brand name has been subtly embossed onto the left shoulder to promote the brand while remaining tasteful.
Trousers - Spey
When designing the trousers, it was important not to stray too far from what was already on the market, while still offering a more unique and exciting style. The trousers have a straight-leg fit with an adjustable side-release buckled belt to create a distinctive look. The zip welt pocket is another interesting feature that works as both design and functionality. The FORTY monster is embroidered on the back right patch pocket in a contrasting thread colour to the base fabric colour as this enhances the typically ordinary feature of a trouser. These trousers will be manufactured from 97% organic cotton and 3% elastane to offer comfort while still looking smart.
Shorts - Jura
These eye-catching shorts are made for the fashion-conscious male who loves to push style boundaries as the originality of the shorts is all in the details. By adding over-lapping patch pockets on both the front and the back of the legs allows this design feature to be enjoyed from all angles, while remaining functional for bank cards, wallets etc. There are also two wide side pockets on the front of the shorts to provide option for a slouchier fit. The FORTY monster is embroidered on the bottom corner of the left leg and the brand name FORTY is featured as a tape vertically down the back of the right leg. These simple features help to promote the brand while still adding style to the garment. Manufactured using 98% cotton and 2% elastane creates a chino-like finish on these shorts which are perfect for either day or night.
Bumbag - Haig
As FORTY currently stock accessories, It was realised that in order to meet consumer demand an accessory should be included in this collection. As stated by Maoui (2019), the bumbag is making a comeback and is set to become a regular essential in men's fashion. Made from 100% Polyester canvas, the bumbag is the perfect finishing detail to any look. Featuring a zip and flap fastening, the bag is very secure ensuring peace of mind if worn on a night out. The intriguing detail of fastening the flap onto the patch pocket creates a layered look not currently seen anywhere else on the market, and the small printed FORTY on the bottom right corner adds to the sleek and premium look.